Songs on repeat: Bobby Long- Left to Lie. Or really all of Bobby Long's Dirty Pond Songs album
That and one thing I WON'T miss from Italy is the mosquitoes. They opened a buffet on me. I look like I'm diseased!
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Monday, June 7, 2010
Failures that work out awesome
Day 16
Rome, Italy
Reading: Dead and Gone by Charlaine Harris
Rome, Italy
Reading: Dead and Gone by Charlaine Harris
By a complete failure on United's part, my seat on my flight home needed to go to a very irate, very loud young man who treated the flight crew as his personal whipping boys. United managed to overbook the flight by 25+ people and were begging for volunteers to stay. I originally said no but once the young man started screaming and looked on the brink of tears, the United crew person looked at me with the saddest puppy dog eyes and a LOT of incentives to give up my seat. So Rome, we're still pals.
I realized part of my major desire to get out of Rome had to do with getting out of the pit-from-hell hostel I was staying in. Once I got out of there, and into the nice hotel room with my own bathtub, Rome suddenly looked much brighter.
I had a very easy day, as the last day of vacation should be. Had a nice lunch (on United), walked bits of Rome I hadn't seen yet. I was in such a good mood I even bought my first miniskirt. No, really. Once the mosquito bites from hell on my legs fade, it won't look half bad. And once Carly whips me into shape once I'm back, I'll even be happy to wear it. :)
While walking Rome, enjoying my last strawberry gelato, I got hit by the scene I needed to get my story rolling. I sat on a bench outside Vatican City, licking the last bits of gelato from my fingers and finally, finally, finally got to writing. Thank God. I was beginning to think it would never happen.
This is exactly how I wanted to end vacation. A little accomplished, a little full, a little sunburned, a little sore, a little educated, a little bit more wardrobe and a lot excited to move into the next phase of life. I am convinced that life isn't marked by your age. It's marked by the stages of your life that are incomparable to others. There is no master sheet that says when you are supposed to feel one way or achieve another. Life is marked by the significant moments and stages you experience alone. It has taken me a while to realize no one else can dictate what those are for you. But when you are standing on the edge of the next phase and it really is right, it feels exhilarating. The unknown mixed with the steady understanding of where you've been. All I feel is excitement.
Life lessons aside, I'm more ready today to go than I was yesterday. Don't know why. (Although I think my comfortability now that I'm not in a SHADY ass hostel has a lot to do with it.) Tomorrow I'll write up a final post about the trip as a whole. And I hope I remember to include the story about my drink tonite with an ex-KGB officer turned Russian football player. That deserves a story.
For now I'm going to end my vacation the way all vacations should end- with a bubble bath.
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Sunday, June 6, 2010
The blog of the weary, the overtraveled, the whiney
Day 15
Rome, Italy
Reading: From Dead to Worse by Charlaine Harris
This should be my "last day of vacation, wah wah wah" post, but to be honest, I'm too tired to do one justice. I'll do a proper wrap up post when I'm back in LA. After my 17 1/2 hr flight home. When I have plenty of time to think.
Last day in Rome was fun, jam packed and exhausting. I do believe I've walked more in the last 3 days than I have in......years. Today included:
A tour of the Colosseum and Forum and Ancient Rome (awesome)
Two different helpings of gelato- strawberry the first time, mint chip the second (awesome)
A long walk to the one thing I really wanted to do in Rome- see Bocca Della Veritat and get a picture (awesome)
Meeting up with new friends (fun)
A tandem bike ride through Rome's version of Central Park (awesome and somewhat dangerous but hilarious)
Another looooooooong walk through the middle of Rome to get to a fun place to eat (not so awesome)
Another helping of speghetti carbonara (my least favorite of the 3 I've had but still good)
An argument with a random vendor selling tourist crap (hilarious)
The Trevi Fountain at night (awesome)
Another LOOOOOOONG walk way out of the way back to the hostel (NOT awesome but at least I was in good company)
So yeah....vacation over. Long flight tomorrow. Will think of something poignant to say about my trip when I have my wits about me.
Ciao!
Rome, Italy
Reading: From Dead to Worse by Charlaine Harris
This should be my "last day of vacation, wah wah wah" post, but to be honest, I'm too tired to do one justice. I'll do a proper wrap up post when I'm back in LA. After my 17 1/2 hr flight home. When I have plenty of time to think.
Last day in Rome was fun, jam packed and exhausting. I do believe I've walked more in the last 3 days than I have in......years. Today included:
A tour of the Colosseum and Forum and Ancient Rome (awesome)
Two different helpings of gelato- strawberry the first time, mint chip the second (awesome)
A long walk to the one thing I really wanted to do in Rome- see Bocca Della Veritat and get a picture (awesome)
Meeting up with new friends (fun)
A tandem bike ride through Rome's version of Central Park (awesome and somewhat dangerous but hilarious)
Another looooooooong walk through the middle of Rome to get to a fun place to eat (not so awesome)
Another helping of speghetti carbonara (my least favorite of the 3 I've had but still good)
An argument with a random vendor selling tourist crap (hilarious)
The Trevi Fountain at night (awesome)
Another LOOOOOOONG walk way out of the way back to the hostel (NOT awesome but at least I was in good company)
So yeah....vacation over. Long flight tomorrow. Will think of something poignant to say about my trip when I have my wits about me.
Ciao!
When In Rome.....Be Rude
Day 14
Rome, Italy
Reading: From Dead to Worse by Charlaine Harris
Blog title today is brought to you by Chris, a guy from San Diego, who noticed, as I did, that the Italians aren't that keen on waiting on Americans. Or talking to Americans. Or having to answer questions. It's not that they are out and out rude or that all of them are that way. Not at all. We've met some great staff. But on the majority, there always seems to be this pregnant pause when they realize you're American, and then a sigh, then they help you out.
This especially applies to the museum staff at the Vatican Museum. Really not thrilled to have to answer questions. That aside, the Vatican was beautiful. I went on a tour myself, with an audio guide. Sort of wished I had done the guided tour so I understood a bit better what I was looking at. Standing under the Sistine Chapel was impressive. Humbling to look up at the center of the ceiling and understand that one of the greatest artists in history had an idea and executed it so flawlessly.
I enjoyed the Museum, even if I'm not a massive fan of religious art. I get that it's a major part of art history. As I don't follow Catholicism, I wasn't especially moved by the stories of the popes. But the collection was incredible. I think my favorite room was the "map room" (I'm sure there's an impressive Italian name for it). It's a long hallway that is lines on all sides by massive paintings of maps of Italy, done in incredible detail. It was like walking through a fairy tale or something. So much color. Loved that spot.
After the Vatican, I met up with a few people I had met in San Diego and we went sightseeing. We went to this church with a odd quirk. The Capuchin Crypt is under a very non-descript church. Well, non-descript as the churches here can be. They're all pretty incredible. Underneath this church are 5 or 6 rooms with bone art work covering the walls. The story I got was that the chruch ran out of room in their cemetary, so they started using the bones as artwork. It's fascinating and only a little creepy, spooky, eerie. The walls are covered in skulls, tailbones, vertebrae, fingers, etc. It looks amazing. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capuchin_Crypt
We walked around for a few hours, just exploring. Had a great dinner. At first the wait staff wasn't thrilled to be waiting on us. But after we ordered more than one bottle of wine, they loosened up. The head waiter led us down to an underground gallery that they have, where they have stored all sorts of sculptures and mosaics that they have discovered. Apparently, Rome has these types of places everywhere. There is so much history that has been recovered that private owners have just sort of "taken" what they find and set up their own private galleries. We saw a mosaic floor that has been there for over 2000 years.
Today's my last day. I'm headed to the Colosseum for a tour and then meeting up the San Diego people again for more sightseeing. This trip has been so fantastic, but I think I'm ready for a break. I haven't really processed that today is the last day. It'll hit me tomorrow.
Rome, Italy
Reading: From Dead to Worse by Charlaine Harris
Blog title today is brought to you by Chris, a guy from San Diego, who noticed, as I did, that the Italians aren't that keen on waiting on Americans. Or talking to Americans. Or having to answer questions. It's not that they are out and out rude or that all of them are that way. Not at all. We've met some great staff. But on the majority, there always seems to be this pregnant pause when they realize you're American, and then a sigh, then they help you out.
This especially applies to the museum staff at the Vatican Museum. Really not thrilled to have to answer questions. That aside, the Vatican was beautiful. I went on a tour myself, with an audio guide. Sort of wished I had done the guided tour so I understood a bit better what I was looking at. Standing under the Sistine Chapel was impressive. Humbling to look up at the center of the ceiling and understand that one of the greatest artists in history had an idea and executed it so flawlessly.
I enjoyed the Museum, even if I'm not a massive fan of religious art. I get that it's a major part of art history. As I don't follow Catholicism, I wasn't especially moved by the stories of the popes. But the collection was incredible. I think my favorite room was the "map room" (I'm sure there's an impressive Italian name for it). It's a long hallway that is lines on all sides by massive paintings of maps of Italy, done in incredible detail. It was like walking through a fairy tale or something. So much color. Loved that spot.
After the Vatican, I met up with a few people I had met in San Diego and we went sightseeing. We went to this church with a odd quirk. The Capuchin Crypt is under a very non-descript church. Well, non-descript as the churches here can be. They're all pretty incredible. Underneath this church are 5 or 6 rooms with bone art work covering the walls. The story I got was that the chruch ran out of room in their cemetary, so they started using the bones as artwork. It's fascinating and only a little creepy, spooky, eerie. The walls are covered in skulls, tailbones, vertebrae, fingers, etc. It looks amazing. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capuchin_Crypt
We walked around for a few hours, just exploring. Had a great dinner. At first the wait staff wasn't thrilled to be waiting on us. But after we ordered more than one bottle of wine, they loosened up. The head waiter led us down to an underground gallery that they have, where they have stored all sorts of sculptures and mosaics that they have discovered. Apparently, Rome has these types of places everywhere. There is so much history that has been recovered that private owners have just sort of "taken" what they find and set up their own private galleries. We saw a mosaic floor that has been there for over 2000 years.
Today's my last day. I'm headed to the Colosseum for a tour and then meeting up the San Diego people again for more sightseeing. This trip has been so fantastic, but I think I'm ready for a break. I haven't really processed that today is the last day. It'll hit me tomorrow.
Friday, June 4, 2010
Last Stop: Roma!
Day 13
Rome, Italy
Reading: From Dead to Worse by Charlaine Harris
Songs on Repeat: Hmmm none today
I have to say traveling by train is the most enjoyable mode of transportation for me so far. I popped for first class seats and it was very comfortable, easy, lots of room. With the 100+ lbs in luggage I'm lugging around, it was the best way to go.
Arrived in Rome this afternoon and after another nice long nap (I'm really adapting well to this European idea of siesta), I explored Rome a bit on foot. While at first that was a good idea, in the evening I somehow had managed to get to the only part of the city with no metros and had to hoof it all the way back to my hostel. Mental check: Always make your ending destination close to an easy way back to your lodging.
As much as Venice loves their masks and masquerade, Rome is equally into their statues and fountains. In Venice, every shop has masks peering out of every single window. Venice is lousy with masks. As masks are one of my great annoyances and fears, I didn't pick one of those up as a souvenir. During the day time, I was ok with walking by the mask shops. But in the evening when the shops are closed and these dark, souless eyes are staring out at you, hundreds upon hundreds......ughhh.
Rome, however, is the fountain and statue captial of the world, it feels like. It's really awing. In between these normal urban buildings and streets are ancient structures that come out of nowhere. Fantastic fountains and monuments are tucked in alleyways and in piazzas. You'll wandering down a narrow alley, wondering where the hell you're going, when all of a sudden it'll open up, like a light at the end of a tunnel, and you'll be standing in front of the most incredible fountain or monument or statue you've ever seen. That is, until you go the next block over and see the next one. I can't even take pictures of them all.
They also seem to love their film stars here. Feels a little like Sunset Blvd with the souvenir stands. They're big on Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn and Sophia Loren. They're faces are everywhere. I was tempted to buy this great print of Audrey standing in front of Bocca della Veritat from Roman Holiday. Until I realized I could probably get a better one from LA that wouldn't get crinkled on the way home.
I visit the Vatican early tomorrow, my one and only museum this trip. I definitely need to come back and do all the museums and art. Just couldn't seem to get it in this time.
Ciao!
Rome, Italy
Reading: From Dead to Worse by Charlaine Harris
Songs on Repeat: Hmmm none today
I have to say traveling by train is the most enjoyable mode of transportation for me so far. I popped for first class seats and it was very comfortable, easy, lots of room. With the 100+ lbs in luggage I'm lugging around, it was the best way to go.
Arrived in Rome this afternoon and after another nice long nap (I'm really adapting well to this European idea of siesta), I explored Rome a bit on foot. While at first that was a good idea, in the evening I somehow had managed to get to the only part of the city with no metros and had to hoof it all the way back to my hostel. Mental check: Always make your ending destination close to an easy way back to your lodging.
As much as Venice loves their masks and masquerade, Rome is equally into their statues and fountains. In Venice, every shop has masks peering out of every single window. Venice is lousy with masks. As masks are one of my great annoyances and fears, I didn't pick one of those up as a souvenir. During the day time, I was ok with walking by the mask shops. But in the evening when the shops are closed and these dark, souless eyes are staring out at you, hundreds upon hundreds......ughhh.
Rome, however, is the fountain and statue captial of the world, it feels like. It's really awing. In between these normal urban buildings and streets are ancient structures that come out of nowhere. Fantastic fountains and monuments are tucked in alleyways and in piazzas. You'll wandering down a narrow alley, wondering where the hell you're going, when all of a sudden it'll open up, like a light at the end of a tunnel, and you'll be standing in front of the most incredible fountain or monument or statue you've ever seen. That is, until you go the next block over and see the next one. I can't even take pictures of them all.
They also seem to love their film stars here. Feels a little like Sunset Blvd with the souvenir stands. They're big on Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn and Sophia Loren. They're faces are everywhere. I was tempted to buy this great print of Audrey standing in front of Bocca della Veritat from Roman Holiday. Until I realized I could probably get a better one from LA that wouldn't get crinkled on the way home.
I visit the Vatican early tomorrow, my one and only museum this trip. I definitely need to come back and do all the museums and art. Just couldn't seem to get it in this time.
Ciao!
Thursday, June 3, 2010
Venice by bulletpoint
Day 12
Venice, Italy
Reading: All Together Dead by Charlaine Harris
Songs on repeat: Vivaldi
Venice, Italy
Reading: All Together Dead by Charlaine Harris
Songs on repeat: Vivaldi
A Few Notes on Venice
1. I had an absolute blast today. That being said, one day is enough. If you have a partner or choose to do the museums, which I didn't, two is probably needed.
2. Gentleman, only bring your ladies here if you are extremely tolerant of holding bags while she shops. At every shop. On every street. All day. There's no way around it. The streets are littered with men with the dejected "I'm trying to be nice because I love her but c'mon" look. It transcends language.
3. THAT being said, ladies, if you are looking for clothes, jewelry, shoes, art, glass, leather, gelato, incredible pasta and pizza, pastries, music, cute gondoliers, cheese, chocolate, staggering history and sights + anything you possibly indulge in HEAVEN, then Venice is for you. Bring friends.
4. Waiters in Venice are somewhat fascinated/baffled by a lady dining at a sit down dinner alone. They aren't sure what to do. First, they want to know if it's a mistake. Then they want to know why you want a full meal. Then they want a date.
5. Venice is amazingly walkable, crazy streets aside. I managed to cover the north end of the island by lunchtime and accidentally found the train station. Then I covered the second half by dinner. You only need a ride by the water taxis, bus, etc if you are carrying too many bags or you just want a break from the narrow walkways.
6. Americans, Brits, Aussies, etc outnumber the Venetians by far. I heard more English today than I have in over a week.
7. You can bargain anything.
8. Be willing to embrace the unexpected. It's the best part of traveling. This point goes beyond Venice. Story: This afternoon I took Cynthia's advice and took one of the shuttles to Hotel Cipriani on Giudecca to see the gardens. On the boat was a gentleman in his 80's in a 3 piece suit with a cane. When we arrived, I went exploring and came upon the pool. (Hotel Cipriani is gorgeous and very ritzy, by the way. Worth the trip.) The gentleman crossed my path again. This time he apologized for not greeting me on the boat and invited me to afternoon tea. He's Welshman also visiting alone. I accepted and we sat by the pool and enjoyed a lovely conversation. He worked for the BBC for years and told me all about his travels and the times he visited the US for the Oscars, where he met Alan Ladd, Jack Palance and Sir Anthony Hopkins (before he was a star). He was fascinating. Turns out he even has family in Walnut Creek, which he assumed was a small village lined with walnut groves. I had to set him straight. But it was such a highlight of the day- sitting by the pool, looking at Venice across the water, enjoying tea with a man I never would have met otherwise. Embrace the unexpected.
9. Strawberry gelato: A+++
10. Spaghetti carbonara: A+++
11. Don't be worried about buying too much. They have incredible leather bags here for sale! Perfect for the trip home.
12. While yes, Venice is expensive, it's not outrageous. Nothing I haven't seen in LA. Actually it's better because if you just walk to a quieter area on the island, you'll find the exact same thing you wanted for a few Euro cheaper. Doing that in LA requires a car and at least a hour in traffic.
13. Getting lost is half the fun.
And that's my Venice wrap up! Any questions?
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Wednesday, June 2, 2010
A Day of Indulgence
Day 11
Venice, Italy
Reading: All Together Dead by Charlaine Harris
Songs on repeat: Rodrigo y Gabriela
Venice, Italy
Reading: All Together Dead by Charlaine Harris
Songs on repeat: Rodrigo y Gabriela
That's it. I'm getting rid of all the clothes I brought with me. I'm not attached to any of them and after walking Venice tonite, I have no room for them. From the window shopping, I'm pretty sure I'm getting a whole new wardrobe. I haven't seen much yet but what I have seen is shop after shop of the prettiest damn things you ever saw.
I crept out of Barcelona early this morning. I got a great deal on my flight and today I found out why. The Spanish version of match.com had reserved almost the whole plane for a 2010 version of the Love Boat. I was surrounded by heart-shaped name tags and very excited singles, all headed to the City of Love. Miguel from Amarante had warned me Venice was for lovers. ("Psssh...Sarita, you cannot travel to Venice alone! It is for lovers. All you will see will be couples hand in hand and you will have tear.") Not to contradict Miguel, or disappoint the Love Boaters, but it feels good to be on my own for a minute to breathe. Even in Barcelona I was on the go with people. While this would be a good, different experience with someone, it feels good not to have to talk for a while.
Although I could have used a compadre to get to my B&B. This city requires the buddy system. It's impossible to not get lost. It's just one skinny, unmarked alleyway after another that they have the nerve to call streets. Some aren't even on maps. There's no rhyme or reason or pattern. Identical alleyways just twist off in every direction. It's overwhelming. My GPS can't keep up.
Opposite of Portugal and Barcelona, here I'm all alone in this 3 story B&B. There's no staff and it's eerily quiet. I have the whole top floor to myself. Total shift from how I have been going. Taking advantage of the space and quiet while I can. It started to rain as soon as I got in, which was lovely to watch from my balcony as it rained on the gray twisting streets. I took it as a sign from the gods to continue with my slow mind frame and took a nice long nap.
The nap led into a day of indulgence. That sweet nap put me in a great mood. I took a long hot shower and took my time getting into the evening. I've been pretty frugal so far. This is a budget trip and I want what I have to last. But Venice is a city of enjoyment and I want to enjoy while I can. I wandered into a shop and bought a few necklaces. Found an adorable confectioners bar. That's what I call it. A candy and pastry shop with alcohol. Picked out a chocolate truffle cake roll thing and a whipped cream puff with fresh rasberries for tomorrow. Then I splurged on a huge pasta dinner to celebrate my day. I sat in the courtyard of the osteria with a glass of red wine, finishing my book, and enjoyed a salmon salad with rocket and this indescribable ravioli dish with ricotta and butter sauce. Italy goal #1 down: enjoy some authentic pasta.
I somehow stumbled on to St. Mark's Square. During the day it's supposed to be choas but at night it's calm and romantic. The square is lit up and people can sit at the cafes and drink tea. The dueling orchestras play and there are couples dancing in the open square. These two little boys with umbrellas were running across the courtyard and weaving in and out of the dancers. It had stopped raining and the evening was cool.
I sat on the steps, leaned back and listened to the orchestras play. Sitting there, savoring the peace, I was suddenly staggered with a feeling of missing my dad. He would have loved that moment. That was his kind of moment, sitting and indulging in some peace in a place frozen in time. He appreciated moments like that more than any other. I was so struck by feeling him right then, I had tears. It wasn't a sad moment though. It was knowing that he was there with me, in that spot, looking over the square and listening to the music and feeling whole. I felt him so much right then.
Because I knew it's what he would do, I got out my pastries and indulged. I ate both of them and enjoyed.
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